Potato chip Florentines

June 21, 2025

   

After the great success of my tomato potluck desserts, I enjoyed musing over the possibility of potato potluck desserts for several weeks. This idea came late and fast: substitute plain potato chips in for the usual flaked almonds in my favourite Florentine recipe. So simple to do, and still so tasty! The potato chips toasted to perfection under the syrupy binding mixture, and the dash of salt was welcome. If anything I would have liked more potato flavour here. There's definitely room to play around with different potato chip brands and thicknesses, as well as the quantity added to the recipe. What a fun, tasty process of refinement that would be.

Potato chip Florentines

(adapted from this recipe by Meera Sodha)

60g pistachios, finely chopped 

90g thick/ruffled plain salted potato chips, crushed

50g hazelnuts, chopped 

100g dried cranberries (or other sour berries) 

2 tablespoons plain flour (can be gluten-free)

1/2 teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 

75g margarine 

50g brown sugar 

2 1/2 tablespoons golden syrup

200g dark chocolate

Heat an oven to 200°C. Line a large baking tray with paper.

Chop and crush all the ingredients that need it. Stir together all the nuts, chips and dried fruits in a large bowl. Stir through the flour, salt and cinnamon until combined.

Place the margarine, sugar and golden syrup in a saucepan and set it over medium heat. Cook the mixture, stirring, until everything has melted together and become smooth. (You can also heat in the microwave and stir together.) Take it off the heat and pour it over the nut mixture in the bowl. Stir it all together to combine, then pour the mixture out onto the baking tray. Form a large rectangle about 1 cm thick; mine was about 30 cm x 22 cm.

Bake the Florentine slab for 10-15 minutes, until golden brown - keep a close eye on it to avoid burning! Allow it to cool completely.

Melt the chocolate using your favourite method and pour it over the flattest side of the Florentine rectangle. Allow the chocolate to set completely at room temperature. Slice the Florentine slab into rectangles or diamonds to serve.  

Salt 'n' pepper gems

June 21, 2025

   

We've been getting the old potluck crew together again a bit this year and it's been so great. After the success of the tomato-themed evening earlier in the year, we regathered in June for a potato-focussed event. Potatoes offer up so many possibilities, but I've been eyeing off this very simple but very exciting-looking recipe in Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart since we first flicked through it. Potato gems are spectacular on their own, but this recipe really takes them to new heights. It's so, so easy and the return on investment is incredible - it was one of the hits of a very high quality potluck. Stop reading this, go and buy some gems and then come back and cook this up, trust me.

Salt and pepper potato gems

(from Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart)

800g frozen potato gems (one bag)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 red chilli, finely sliced

3 green onions, finely chopped

seasoning

2 teaspoons of salt

1/2 teaspoon white sugar

1 teaspoon white pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon Chinese five spice

Preheat an oven to 220°C and then bake the gems for half an hour, until they're golden and crispy - don't be afraid to give them more if they're not golden. 

Combine all the seasoning ingredients in a bowl and mix well. 

Heat a large frying pan or wok over medium heat and add the oil. Once it's nice and hot throw in the chilli and green onions and stir-fry for a minute. Throw in the gems and stir-fry for another couple of minutes until everything is nicely combined. 

Kill the heat and stir through the seasoning. Serve immediately. 

Cauliflower & eggplant, both with hoisin

June 7, 2025

   

While Michael was away on a work trip, I set about making myself a large, vege-full set of dishes that I could spin out over many meals. These two recipes from Tenderheart had a complementary way about them - the eggplant's marinade includes hoisin sauce and it's served over rice, while the cauliflower recipe involves making one's own hoisin and includes jointly cooking white rice, brown rice and quinoa.

Since I'm not fond of McKinnon's recommended green onion and coriander garnishes for these dishes, my rendition ended up looking very beige and brown. I went a little light on the hoisin for the cauliflower and had plenty leftover to lend to the eggplant marinade. I really enjoyed the mixed grains and would repeat that process to serve alongside any number of recipes.

Meanwhile, the eggplant didn't quite live up to the glossy image in the book. It was pleasantly salty and savoury, very tender; neither flawed nor quite what I was hoping for in a 'char siu' dish. Once I'd managed my expectations this was a very good meal that packed nicely for work lunches. Little garnishes like peanuts and sesame seeds make all the difference to me!

Hoisin-glazed cauliflower with mixed grains & peanuts

(slightly adapted from Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart)

1 head cauliflower

olive oil

salt and pepper

1/3 cup roasted peanuts

hoisin sauce

3 tablespoons tamari

2 tablespoons tahini

1 teaspoon garlic powder

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

pepper

2 teaspoons miso

mixed grains

1 cup brown rice

1/2 cup white rice

1/4 cup quinoa

salt

Preheat an oven to 200°C.

Place the rices and the quinoa in a sieve and rinse them. Transfer them to a medium-large saucepan with 2 1/2 cups of water and a generous pinch of salt. Set the saucepan over high heat, bring it all to the boil and then turn the heat down to low. Cook the grains for 30-35 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the grains are tender. Turn off the heat but leave the lid on the saucepan.

While the grains are cooking, make the hoisin sauce by whisking all the ingredients together in a bowl.

Chop the cauliflower into big, chunky florets. Place them in a baking tray and stir through olive oil, salt and pepper, and several tablespoons of the hoisin sauce. Roast for 20-30 minutes, until the cauliflower is tender.

To serve, load plates up with grains, then cauliflower, spoon over extra hoisin and then sprinkle over the peanuts.

Eggplant, 'char siu' style

(slightly adapted from Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart)

2 large eggplants, sliced into 1cm thick rounds

white sesame seeds, to garnish

marinade

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon tamari

1 tablespoon golden syrup

2 teaspoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

Whisk together all of the marinade ingredients. Arrange the eggplant slices in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over them. Allow the eggplants to soak up the marinade for at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours. Turn them over and/or relayer them in the dish along the way, for more even flavouring, if you're marinating them for a longer period.

Preheat an oven to 200°C. Line 1-2 baking trays with paper.

Arrange the eggplant slices in one layer across the baking trays and bake them for 15 minutes. Retrieve the trays, flip the eggplant slices, and spoon some of the remaining marinade over them. Return to the oven for a further 15 minutes of baking. 

Serve the eggplant slices with more marinade spooned over the top, and a sprinkling of sesame seeds.

Miso caramel apple pies

June 1, 2025

   

For Michael's birthday this year, his mum gave him a copy of The Australian Women's Weekly The Pie Maker Volume 2, a recipe book full of cute, single-serve pastries. I offered to make his pick of the recipes as a little home celebration on the weekend following his birthday. Apple pie has long been a favourite of Michael's so I wasn't surprised that he chose the miso caramel-garnished version in this book.

This was a fun little combination, very different to my go-to apple pie recipe. It started with frozen shortcrust pastry but I preferred to use puff, simply quartering the sheet and easing each square into a pie dish without trimming it. I'd never before noticed canned pie apple at the supermarket but we tracked it down and it was an easy filling, spiced up with ginger, cinnamon and miso. On top there's an elegant fan of apple slices; the recipe reckons that each pie can support half an apple but I thought a quarter was a better fit. The recipe's designed for a dedicated pie maker, but these ones were just as effectively baked in the oven.

Finally, there's miso-spiked top'n'fill caramel to drizzle over the top (and if you're sensible, a scoop of icecream on the side). It's a delicious little package, fit for a birthday.

   

As a post-script, here's Henry, the newest member of our household. He's as fond of human food as he is his own, and he stared longingly at these pies throughout their assembly.

Miso caramel apple pies

(slightly adapted from a recipe in
The Australian Women's Weekly The Pie Maker Volume 2)

1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed

1 tablespoon white miso

1/4 cup caster sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

385g can pie apple slices

1 red apple

miso caramel

1/2 cup canned caramel top'n'fill

2 tablespoons white miso

Preheat an oven to 180°C. Line four single-serve pie dishes with paper; I just used squares of paper and didn't worry too much about gaps. Cut the pastry into four squares of equal area and gently fit them into the pie dishes. Add some paper/pie weights and pre-bake the pastry for up to 10 minutes, until the pastry corners are just going golden.

Mix together the miso, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, 1/4 teaspoon of the cinnamon, and the ginger in a medium bowl. Fold in the canned apple. When the pastry is ready, remove any pie weights and divide this mixture evenly into the four pie dishes.

Remove the core from the apple and slice it into thin wedges. Arrange the slices decoratively across the pies. Sprinkle over the remaining cinnamon and sugar. Bake until the pastry is golden brown but not burnt, about 10-15 minutes.

While the pies are baking, transfer the top'n'fill to a microwave-safe bowl and heat for about 40 seconds. Whisk in the miso until smooth.

Serve the pies warm, generously drizzled with the miso caramel, with a scoop of icecream on the side.

Beit Siti

June 1, 2025

   

I've been following Beit Siti on instagram for quite a while, and immediately put their cafe on my wishlist when its opening was announced in late May. The name means "grandmother's home" in Arabic, and the business pays homage to the Palestinian roots of founder Rahaf Al Khatib.

They're starting slowly and building up. When we arrived at lunch time on a Sunday, the display cabinet was about half sold-out. I missed out on a zaatar and cheese croissant but we happily made do with the alternatives (clockwise from top left): a savoury labaneh croissant ($12), a Danish spread with strawberry jam, dolloped with labaneh and garnished with pomegranate seeds and dill ($10), and a Musakahn Danish of confit onion, sumac and chickpeas ($10). The pastry was beautiful and the fillings so well composed.

   

Beit Siti post what they've got coming up each morning in their instagram stories: I've spotted labaneh cheesecake brownies, several flavours of focaccia, carrot and walnut cake, and mudjaddarah with a vegan option recently! I'd highly recommend stopping in and taking a chance on whatever's in store.

____________

Beit Siti

150 Bell St, Coburg

https://www.beitsiti.com/

Accessibility: Beit Siti has a ramp on entry. Furniture is mostly regular-height tables and backed chairs at medium spacing (though check out the lovely chaise lounge in the top photo!). We noticed that a high chair was available. We ordered and paid at a regular-height counter. We didn't visit the toilets.

Etta IV

May 29, 2025

   

Last year's visit to Etta for my birthday was such a success that I dragged us back again in May as I ticked off another year. The food at Etta these days is almost surgically designed to appeal to me - lots of bold flavours, Sichuan peppers popping up all over the place and a real emphasis on making the vegetarian food as interesting as the meaty stuff.

We ordered the set menu ($115 each) to save making any decisions - the vego version of this comes with a few dishes that aren't on the standard a la carte menu, so it's definitely worth the money if you're feeling fancy. 

   

They kicked things off with a thick slab of bread from the nearby Wild Life Bakery, served with smoked brown butter. I love the Wild Life bread and I would obviously eat smoked brown butter as part of every meal for the rest of my life if I could. When the butter runs out, you can dab the bread in the amazing Sichuan chilli oil that comes with the other dish - a skewer featuring quail egg, pickled daikon and lotus root. A great mix of flavours and textures to get things underway.

   

Next up was roast pumpkin, with seed satay sauce, Jerusalem artichoke crisp and pickled onions. The satay on this had a nice spicy bite, with some acid from the pickles and a creamy base really drawing out the sweet, rich pumpkin. Great crunch from the crisps on top too - this was a big hit.

   

We also loved the pickled and smoked eggplant, with sambal and crispy potatoes - it's working with the same kind of ideas, spicy sauce, acid from the pickles, rich smokiness and then crisp on top. This one isn't on the regular menu, but you should get your hands on it if you can!

   

The greens dish was a mix of Brussels sprouts and Chinese broccoli, served with puffed buckwheat and a fermented tofu cream. A pretty impressive plate for your side veggies.

   

Next up was a golden egg tofu, served on a corn reduction and topped with pickled chrysanthemum. The tofu texture is so incredible - smooth and creamy underneath a delicately crisp outer layer. Variations on this are a staple on the Etta menu and I would always order it. 

   

I would also always order the heartiest dish of the night, the zongzi, featuring oyster mushrooms and black bean chilli oil. I'd never heard of zongzi before Etta served it up - they're steamed glutinous rice cakes basically. Etta's version is so rich and savoury, with meaty mushrooms and five spice and the kick of the chilli oil. It's sublime, especially in winter.

   

The dessert for the night was the dish that is becoming Etta's signature - the chilli oil parfait, with melon, lychee and lime leaf sorbet. The chilli oil parfait is very clever, and this is a really fresh and sharp dessert - it feels a bit more summery than the rest of the menu, but it shows off Etta's approach really well.

We just had a spectacular dinner - service is always exceptional: incredibly friendly, but always super sharp, and the space is a delight, especially in the back dining room area. Every time we go I want to go back immediately - it's a special occasion place that feels like your favourite local as well.

____________

You can read about our previous visits to Etta here, here and here, as well as a positive review at The Juliet Report.

____________

Etta

60 Lygon St, Brunswick

9448 8233

autumn a la carte, set menu

http://ettadining.com.au/

Accessibility: The entry is flat and there is one step up from the bar area to the dining area. Tables are moderately spaced and lighting is quite dim. We received full table service. Toilets are unisex and spacious, but we didn't notice handrails or other mobility aids.

Kale dumplings with brothy butter beans

May 25, 2025

   

We're still working our way through the delights of Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart, and Melbourne's grim winter had us digging this perfect warming stew. It went so well that we made it for a second time about a week later for friends, and it's immediately slotted into my favourites list. It's kind of a nice one to have two people at work here - both times I took charge of the stew and Cindy managed dumplings - but nothing here is actually super complicated or time-consuming. The first time we did it we followed Hetty's instructions and steam-cooked the dumplings on top of the stew (covered, in the saucepan), but we had enough spare to do an oven baked batch as well and that ended up as our go-to method. Either way is utterly delicious though - you wind up with this hearty, aromatic stew topped with rich, cheesy dumplings. It really is an aboslute killer.

Kale dumplings with brothy butter beans

(a recipe from Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart)

olive oil

1 leek, white and pale green parts, finely sliced

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 teaspoon red chilli flakes

400g can crushed tomatoes

500ml veggie stock

2 x 400g cans butter beans, drained

1 teaspoon white sugar

50g kale leaves (about half a small bunch), destemmed and finely chopped

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

half a bunch of basil leaves, roughly chopped

salt and pepper

dumplings

1 cup plain flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

3 tablespoons butter

50g kale leaves (the other half a bunch), destemmed and finely chopped

3/4 cup grated cheddar

1 egg

1/2 cup milk

half a bunch of basil leaves, chopped

salt and pepper

In a large saucepan heat 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil and, when it's hot, add in the leek and stir-fry for 2 or 3 minutes until it softens. Throw in the garlic, tomato paste, paprika and chilli flakes and stir for anothe minute or so.

Add the tomatoes, stock, beans and sugar and season well with salt and pepper. Bring the mix to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes or so.

Meanwhile, get to work on your dumplings. Combine the flour, baking powder, 1 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper in a bowl. Rub the butter into the flour mix with your fingers and then stir in the kale, cheese and basil and mix well. Beat the egg into the milk and then fold this into the mix until everything is just combined.

Pre-heat the oven to 180°C.

Go back to your stew and stir the kale leaves and red wine vinegar in, tasting the mix and seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.

Transfer the stew to a casserole dish or ceramic baking tray and scoop out golf ball sized dumpling balls and layer them across the stew - you need to leave a little space between them because they'll expand a bit while you bake. 

Give them about 15 minutes in the oven - you want the dumplings to go a little bit golden on top and be cooked through (a skewer should come out clean). 

Serve, topped with the remaining basil leaves and a few drizzles of olive oil. 

Farmer's Daughters

May 11, 2025

   

We booked in a bunch of events at the Melbourne Writers Festival and found ourselves with a four-hour break on Sunday afternoon. That's long enough to go home for a bit, but instead we elected to splash out on a fancy lunch. Farmer's Daughters, which I didn't know much about, had availability on their (covered) rooftop for the late timeslot we were after. We were probably the only table there not celebrating Mothers' Day.

   

The Farmer's Daughters menu is focused on fresh produce from Gippsland. Dietary features aren't marked on the menu, but we trusted there'd be some great vegetables and that the staff would know what's what. Happily, they also offer a few mocktails ($12 each) and an in-menu option that the bartender can whip you up something customised if they're not what you're after. The Phillip Island Mule, with native lemongrass, suited me straight up.

   

Bread excepted, we sampled everything vegetarian across the entrees and mains. Zucchini pieces were grilled, sauced with romesco, piled with shiso, topped with a ball of creamy burrata and liberally sprinkled with dukkah ($25). In a similar pattern, roasted beetroot was teamed with green leaves, topped with feta and seasoned with hazelnuts and pepperberry ($24).  

   

Neat little potato rösti squares ($10 each) were piped with cheese mousse, topped with a fresh fig flourish and a sprig of French sorrel. I wasn't sure about fig and potato together, but the cream cheese was the natural bridge between the two.

   

The roast potato and leek pie ($35) was tremendously burnished and flaky, topped with confit red onion and surrounded by a rich brown butter sauce. It was a bit late in the season for tomatoes, so the salad of heirloom tomatoes, strawberry, mozzarella and basil ($21) worked slightly better in theory than in practice.

   

Dessert was study in classics done well. Cheesecake ($20) was sweet, tangy, nutty and creamy in perfect proportions, with a little berry compote on the side. The 75% Cuvée chocolate tart ($21) was smooth, firm and bittersweet, accompanied by a delectable salted hazelnut praline sauce and spoonful of crème diplomate. We carefully halved both desserts as fairly as we could.

The service at Farmer's Daughters was bright and professional and we enjoyed our meal very much. The vegetarian options leaned heavily on Gippsland's great dairy products, so it's hard to predict how well they'd cater to vegans. We're glad we had this unusual excuse to splurge on a meal there, and I'd do it again if the same rare circumstances recurred.

____________

You can also read a positive review from Sweet & Sour Fork.

____________

Farmer's Daughters

95 Exhibition St, Melbourne CBD

9116 8682

a la carte, chef's selection

https://www.farmersdaughters.com.au/

Accessibility: There's a lift to the rooftop. It's densely packed with regular height tables, backed chairs and some padded benches. We ordered and paid at our table. There's a handful of individual cubicles on the same level, some gendered and some unisex ambulant.

Cherry tomato & berry crumble

May 3, 2025

   

When making these two tomato desserts, it was important to me that the tomato wouldn't be hidden away - I wanted it to be a prominent, complementary flavour. I recalled having two inspiring back-to-back meals in New Zealand in 2013 that combined tomatoes with red berries - so bright and juicy, sweet and sour! It had me thinking that I could try bringing tomatoes and berries together in a warm fruit crumble for autumn.

My formula was pretty simple: equal weights of cherry tomatoes and frozen mixed berries, giving the tomatoes extra baking time to ensure they were properly soft. Then a crumble based on the proportions I relied on as far back as 2007 (apologies for the diet talk in that post - yeesh). I used gluten-free flour and wheat-free rolled oats to accommodate our favourite coeliac.

Those test proportions were just what I was after! The fruit layer was lush with a clear tomato flavour, subtly savoury amongst the berries, and an even texture across all the fruit pieces. The crumble was nutty and biscuity, not quite as golden as I reckon a wheat-flour version would be. I scooped Billy Van Creamy vegan peach and coconut icecream on the side, and everyone dug in with curiosity and compliments.

Cherry tomato & berry crumble

(based on this general crumble formula)

 

fruit layer

560g cherry tomatoes

560g frozen mixed berries

1/3 cup caster sugar

crumble

100g gluten-free flour

100g wheat-free rolled oats

100g caster sugar

100g margarine

50g flaked almonds

Preheat an oven to 160°C.

Halve the cherry tomatoes, place them in a casserole dish, and bake for 30 minutes, until they're soft and concentrated. 

While the tomatoes are baking, prepare the crumble. Place the flour, oats and sugar in a food processor and pulse briefly. Add the margarine and pulse further. Add the almonds and pulse a final time.

When the tomatoes are ready, retrieve them from the oven and raise the oven temperature to 190°C. Add the berries and sugar to the tomatoes and stir them all together. Dot the crumble haphazardly over the top. Bake until the fruit is bubbling and the crumble is golden brown, about 20 minutes. Allow the crumble to cool a little before serving, with a dollop of something creamy.

Bush tomato shortbread

May 2-3, 2025

   

Some of our best Melbourne friendships were forged through veg*n blogging and potlucking more than 15 years ago. We remain in contact but life changes - any combination of moving to more distant neighbourhoods, raising kids, health issues, and busier careers mean that few of us have maintained the same time, energy and enthusiasm for elaborate cooking. 

Yet there's been a happy little resurgence this year - over a birthday banquet out, the idea was hatched to hold a tomato-themed vegan potluck. Ever the sweet tooth, I resolved to make dessert and make it good. Here's my first of two contributions: bush tomato shortbread.

I loved using the Mabu Mabu bush tomato spice mix in damper, but at some point they stopped stocking it. I looked around online on and off for months, perhaps years, and it seemed pretty scarce. With this renewed motive, I found unadulterated dried bush tomato through Native Oz Bushfoods and mail-ordered a couple of pouches.

From there I kept it simple, using a vegan shortbread base (sourced from vegan blogging mate Steph!) that I'd usually flavour with lemon myrtle and macadamias. It's easy to make in one bowl and can be mixed by hand. I thought about adding a little cinnamon to assert this as a sweet spice mix but I'm glad that I didn't. The bush tomato shone through, tangy and fruity, dessert without a doubt. Thank goodness I'm stocked with enough spice to make more.

Bush tomato shortbread

(adapted from this recipe, which is based on this one from Vegan About Town)

200g margarine

1/2 cup caster sugar

1 3/4 cups flour

1 1/2 tablespoons bush tomato powder

Preheat an oven to 190°C. Line a baking tray with paper.

In a medium bowl, use a fork to beat together the margarine and sugar. Add the flour and mix until combined. Add the bush tomato and mix again. Roll scant tablespoons of the dough into balls and place them on the baking tray. Bake for ~15 minutes, and allow to cool before serving.

Mushroom pâté & sesame toast

April 20-22, 2025

   

I've been a long-time reader of Anne Helen Petersen across multiple platforms and a few months ago she announced the start of a cooking club within her substack. The first cookbook we were all invited to cook from was Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart, an easy and welcome request in this household! I used this as motivation to try a couple of 'project' recipes over the Easter weekend.

The two recipes I signed up for form a clever pair within the Mushroom section. First, there's mushroom, leek & walnut pâté - I liked that it included dried porcinis for a flavour boost. There's soaking and sautéing and blending and refrigeration; nothing too complicated but best taken slowly. The process generates a lovely, savoury spread that I ate on fresh bread. I'd increase the quantity of five-spice and salt if I made this again.

Second, there's sesame mushroom toast - a home-made, vegan alternative to prawn toast. This transfers the mushroom pâté to the plainest white square bread, where it's layered with sesame seeds and shallow-fried. We love eating veg*n versions at restaurants, and I expected the home version to be messy and not quite right. How wrong I was! This sesame mushroom toast was easy to fry golden (and also successful with less oil than instructed) and tasted magnificent, especially with the sweet and sour sauce drizzle. I immediately posted photos to my veg*n groupchat with the caption I just made the mushroom sesame toast from Tenderheart and am now levitating. Then I wrote way too many effusive words in AHP's cookbook club thread. Now you get some, too!

   

Mushroom, leek & walnut pâté

(a recipe from Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart)

olive oil

1 leek, finely sliced

30g dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes

3 cloves garlic, minced

500g mushrooms (any type), roughly chopped

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

1/2 teaspoon red chilli flakes

salt and pepper

100g walnuts, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes

Set a frypan over medium heat and add a couple tablespoons of oil. Add the leek and cooked until softened, up to 10 minutes.

While the leek is cooking, drain the porcini mushrooms and lightly squeeze them out, keeping all the soaking liquid. Roughly chop the mushrooms. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve.

To the frypan, add the fresh and soaked mushrooms and the garlic. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the five-spice, chilli flakes, and salt and pepper. Allow the mixture to cool to a temperature that's safe for a food processor.

Drain the walnuts and place them in a food processor. Add the cooled mushroom mixture. Pulse the mixture to your desired consistency. Stop and scrape down the sides occasionally for evenness, and add a little of the mushroom soaking liquid if you need more moisture (I didn't need much at all). Spread the pâté on fresh bread or toast, either straight away or after storing in the refrigerator.

Sesame mushroom toast

(slightly adapted from a recipe from Hetty Lui McKinnon's Tenderheart)

toast

6 thick slices square white bread

3/4 - 1 cup mushroom pâté (as above)

1/2 cup white sesame seeds

vegetable oil, for frying

sweet & sour sauce

1 tablespoon caster sugar

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

3 teaspoons tamari

2 tablespoons tomato ketchup

1 teaspoon garlic powder

Make the sweet and sour sauce by whisking all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

Spread a generous amount of pâté on each piece of bread. Sprinkle over a lot of sesame seeds, aiming for full coverage, and lightly press them into the pâté. Quarter the slices into triangles.

Set a frypan over medium-high heat and pour in oil to a depth of 5mm. Set up a plate or tray with paper towel to drain the fried toasts. When the oil is very hot arrange some toast triangles in the oil, leaving decent gaps between them. The toasts should sizzle immediately. Fry them for about 2 minutes on each side, until golden and crisp, then transfer them to the paper towel as you fry the remaining toasts in batches.

Serve as soon as possible, with sweet & sour sauce drizzled over the top.

Kababi

April 18, 2025

   

We had a quiet, local Easter weekend and decided to tick a far-flung restaurant off our wishlist. It caused a little confusion but a good meal, nonetheless - Michael was aiming for SalamaTea (near Sunshine train station) but the internet directed him to Kababi, located on a dark, fairly industrial road. The two eateries are linked, and within weeks SalamaTea closed, so we landed in the spot that's still around for you to try.

   

These two restaurants describe themselves as Persian fusion, and they have a decent number of veg*n options that can generally be discerned from the menu. We got started with a plate of dolmeh ($10), little vine leaf-wrapped parcels of tender rice with soft onions and tarragon, topped with tangy pomegranate seeds.

   

Next we went for a big, cosy plate of mirza ghasemi ($14), a medley of charred eggplant and eggs in a sauce of tomato, onion, garlic and turmeric, mopped up with bread.

   

Finally, we shared a mushroom kebab main ($22). The king oyster mushrooms were huge, marinated, both juicy and well charred, served with one huge charred chilli, lovely saffron barberry rice, shallot dip, and abundant fresh basil and salad.

   

Though we chose and received the drinks early, I want to place them in the context of the meal. Michael ordered a Sour Cherry from the Persian Sharbat ($8, above right), a sweet and fruity option that echoes the pomegranate seeds across our dishes. I felt adventurous and checked out the sparkling yoghurt drink ($8, above left). It's precisely as described and so different to what we're usually exposed to! Very cold, tangy with yoghurt, but thinned out and carbonated (not thick like a lassi). Savoury with salt and dried mint. Honestly, I found the flavour quite challenging on its own but it made perfect sense alongside the kebab, and I can see how refreshing it would be in summer.

   

As it was, we were experiencing a cool autumn evening, so we took home some of their churros and chocolate sauce ($7) for dessert on the couch. As you can see in the top photo, there was a wealth of little pastries and biscuits on offer, and I noticed rice pudding on the menu too.

   

Kababi was full of happy families on our visit, and we enjoyed our time there too. Keep it in mind if you're out Sunshine way!

____________

Kababi

18A Market Rd, Sunshine

9008 4084

food, drinks 

https://www.kababi.com.au/

Accessibility: Entry is flat and there is a reasonably clear path to the counter. Regular-height tables with backed chairs are arranged at high density, and there are a couple of backed stools by a higher counter at the window. There might be some outdoor seating in the summer but it was too cold and dark to consider at this time. We ordered and paid at a low counter. We didn't visit the toilets.

Cornish Arms V

April 13, 2025

   

We've been somewhat regular patrons of The Cornish Arms in the near-decade since our last post about it. We intended to blog the rooftop opening in 2018, but we've always focused on socialising with friends while there. More recently, we've been checking in every couple of months for the Sunday afternoon trivia.

The menu has continued with variations on the same theme - majority fried pub food with plentiful vegan options, usually mock meat, in enormous servings. There's a rotating list of specials, too. It's great stuff when you're in the mood!

During our trivia sessions I've enjoyed getting acquainted with the Irish Spice Bag ($20). It's a completely new delicacy to me, though I've noticed it on a couple of Irish pub menus following The Cornish. Apparently it originates from Chinese restaurants in Ireland in the 2010s. The Cornish version rings true to the wikipedia description: heaps of chips, some crumbed and seasoned mock-chicken pieces, a good scattering of crispy chilli and green onion strips, and a curry-spiked gravy on the side. It's listed as a 'snack', but it's more than I tend to eat for an entire meal. It's definitely worth persuading a friend or two to share the fun with you.

____________

You can read about one, two, three, four of our many past visits to the Cornish Arms.

____________

The Cornish Arms Hotel

163A Sydney Rd, Brunswick

9380 8383

snacks & kids meals, mains 

https://www.cornisharms.com.au/

Accessibility: There's a ramped entryway and a reasonably clear walkway through the middle. Tables and chairs are arranged at medium density, a mixture of high tables with backless stools, and low tables with benches along the wall and backed chairs. We ordered at our table and paid at a high counter. The toilets are on the same level, with gendered narrow cubicles and one ungendered accessible toilet.

Green Man's Arms V

April 11, 2025 

   

The Green Man's Arms could be my favourite currently-trading pub, yet I rarely go for the pubbiest of their food, like the burger or parma. (OK, OK - I'll admit that I've eaten their pomme frites a lot.) I was in the mood to change that in a recent, typical, dinner-around-a-Nova-movie visit and checked out the Greenman's cheese burger ($30). There's a choice of two patty types here - house-made black bean or Beyond mock beef - blanketed in vegan gouda and layered into a soft bun with dill pickles, Bull's Eye BBQ sauce and garlic aioli. Then there's a handful of those pomme frites and a generous splodge of tomato sauce on the side.

I have long felt wary of mushy, messy and bland veg patties at omni pubs, and tend to avoid their burgers unless they state that they're mock meat. But I was willing to take a punt on the Green Man's version, and it paid off. Their black bean burger holds together and tastes really great! Meanwhile, my omni companion tried her first Beyond burger and was really impressed. A win for both the mock-lovers and the mock-averse!

____________

You can read about one, two, three, four of our previous visits to Green Man's Arms.

____________

Green Man's Arms

418 Lygon St, Carlton

9347 7419

http://www.greenmansarms.com.au/

Accessibility: The entry has a small lip from the street and there's a step up between the front bar and the dining room. Furniture in the dining room is regular seated height and medium-to-high density, with padded benches along the walls and backed seats in the interior. The front bar has medium-to-high density high tables and backless stools. We ordered at our table and paid at the high bar. Toilets are gendered with narrow cubicles and located on the same level as the dining area.

Vegan chocolate cupcakes with peanut butter buttercream

April 5, 2025

   

After a couple of underwhelming bakes with my decades-old metal cupcake tray, I put "silicon cupcake tray" on my op-shopping wishlist. I easily tracked one down for a couple of dollars within weeks and then, of course, I had to test it out. I browsed my old recipe bookmarks and picked out a Burned Butter post for chocolate-peanut butter cupcakes.

The tray had only six cups, so I halved the recipe... and still ended up with 10 cupcakes. (If I'd read the source recipe properly, I'd have known that the original was supposed to make 24. I've written out my 10-cupcake version below.) The cake itself is a lovely, simple pantry-friendly vegan chocolate. The only potential pitfall is getting the batter mixed properly - I sifted the dry ingredients directly into the wet ones and ended up with a few powdery lumps in the cakes. I pulled the cakes out at the 20 minute mark to keep them moist, but found that their bottoms dragged on every surface they touched, leaving cakey smears on the baking tray, the cooling rack and the lunchbox I stored them in. The latter four had more time to rest in the tray and fared better.

My veganised buttercream went off without a hitch, and I slathered on a modest amount with a knife - I have a minimal-frills attitude to cupcakes, and these were bang on my preference. The silicon pan showed much promise, and I scavenged a second six-cupper from another op-shop a month or so later.

Vegan chocolate cupcakes with peanut butter buttercream

(recipe adapted from Burned Butter,

where it's credited to Joy the Baker and Ina Garten) 

chocolate cake

1 1/8 cups plain flour

1 cup caster sugar

1/2 cup cocoa powder

1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup neutral vegetable oil

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 teaspoon white vinegar

1 cup water

peanut butter buttercream

1/2 cup smooth peanut butter

1/3 cup margarine

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup icing sugar

Preheat an oven to 180°C. Prepare a cupcake tray as you wish, with papers and/or oil.

In a medium bowl, sift together and flour, sugar, cocoa, bicarb soda and salt, then stir to combine.

In a small bowl, whisk together oil, vanilla, vinegar and water. Gradually pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture, stirring thoroughly to combine; the batter will be quite liquid. Gently pour the batter into the cupcake tray until two-thirds full. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the cakes pass the skewer test. Allow them to cool before icing.

Beat together the peanut butter, margarine and vanilla. Sift over the icing sugar and beat until well combined and fluffy. Spread the buttercream over the cooled cupcakes.

Sleepys

April 5, 2025

   

Though it's not far from our home, we don't pay Nicholson Village the attention it deserves. It took a recommendation from Michael's friend Evie to alert us to Sleepys, a cafe and wine bar that occupies the spot we once knew as A Fan's Notes. The space is much brighter and more carefully composed in this incarnation. The menu is modest in length but bold in flavour: croissants are stuffed with spam and bechamel, bacon and eggs are served only inside dumplings, and the omelette is flavoured with prawns, shiitake XO sauce, and Chinese broccoli. Clear markings indicate that about half of the dishes can be served vegan, and a third gluten-free.

   

Michael was drawn to the breakfast congee ($15). It's a deeply savoury experience, with the rice garnished with soy sauce, chilli oil, a tea egg, spring onion, furikake and fried shallots; Michael took it a little further and ordered the extra Chinese broccoli and shiitake ($6).

   

I couldn't resist trying the mi goreng toastie ($14) and added a fried egg ($3) to split the carbs with some extra protein. This was oily, wiggly deliciousness - very salty and very satisfying. I reckon the composer of this dish must've worked a while to perfect it, because the toast had just the right amount of crispness to hold together right down to my last bite.

The Sleepys staff made us feel very welcome and not at all rushed. The two of us agreed to rush back for more as soon as we could.

____________

Sleepys has also received a positive review from Whatever Floats Your Bloat.

____________

Sleepys

787 Nicholson St, Carlton North

food, drinks 

https://www.sleepyscafeandwinebar.com.au/

Accessibility: Sleepys has a step up on entry and clear pathway through the middle. Inside there are  densely arranged regular and high tables with backed chairs; the backless benches outside look a little unstable. We ordered at our table and paid at a high counter. We didn't visit the toilets but it looks like there's a tight turn on the way out. (When this spot previously housed A Fan's Notes, we described the toilet as "a single, unisex toilet cubicle, which is a step up off an uneven path".)

This Borderland II

April 4, 2025

   

As 2025 opened, Preston diner This Borderland celebrated their 6th year but also announced that it would be their last one. I've been determined to get back there at least once more, and there are still a few months left for you to do so too!

   

The menu has remained pretty consistent for years - a suite of burgers and fried sides, plus a couple of desserts. Vegetarian and vegan options are available on all meat-based dishes, but there's no explicit guidance for coeliacs. Our fries ($7) arrived quickly and were excellent, with the full line-up of sauces.

   

I just had to stick with my favourite order, the Half Charlotte ($15.90) - a beautifully seasoned piece of southern fried seitan with a little pool of chipotle mayo, plenty of pickles and a huge mound of slaw.

   

Michael went all out on a Buffalo Bill ($21.90), a mock-beef burger with bacon, cheese, slaw, onion rings, bbq sauce and mayo. Even the very-game Michael had to eat the onion rings first before wrapping his mouth around this burger.

The desserts - cherry pie and white chocolate raspberry cheesecake - always look incredible but impossible after a meal this filling. I've got just a few months to figure out how to fit one in!

____________

You can read about our first couple of visits to This Borderland here.

____________

This Borderland

208 Tyler St, Preston

no phone

food, liquids 

instagram

Accessibility: There are two steps up on entry; most of the seating is in booths, but there are high backed seats at the window and the counter too. We ordered and paid at a low counter. There's a single unisex toilet - it's quite small and not particularly accessible.

Smith & Daughters XI

March 28, 2025 

   

There are numerous Smith and Daughters posts in our archives, but none since they moved to Collingwood in 2021! The friends we shared food with in the ninth and tenth posts arranged a shared dinner at what's currently known as Smith & Daughters Social Club. The vibe is a touch more relaxed than the original Fitzroy incarnation - less crammed with witchy artwork and knick knacks, with a bit more space around tables - but still dark and moody, with a menu of rich vegan food.

   

In a very rare occurrence, I was the one person at the table to order alcohol! I started the night with a strawberry and vanilla spritz ($20), while my companions all had non-alcoholic spiced margaritas ($16). Smith & Daughters has always been proud of its cocktails, and these upheld that standard.

This was as much decision-making as we could be bothered with - we elected to sit back and see what was in the four course chef's choice menu ($95 per person).

   

We were started with a small bowl of smoky, earthy BBQ baked beans and burnt ends with brightly contrasting watermelon pickle and a side of corn bread madeleines. We also shared out fried green tomatoes with a tangy, creamy remoulade.

   

Jerk oyster mushroom skewers were meaty and spicy! I had to drain some of the hot oil from my skewer, and others gladly mopped it up.

   

The little platter of rice, red beans and plantain was all starchy comfort - it'd make a satisfying main meal all on its own.

   

The gumbo bowl looked small but there was plenty to go around, with a mock-shrimp each, plus sausage, okra and veges in a thick broth.

   

Black eye pea fritters were thickly crumbed and dragged through hot pepper sauce. 

   

The most memorable course might've been the ultra-cheesy baked mac n cheese, dotted with bacon and grilled corn, teamed with a fresh and colourful plate of tomatoes and BBQ plums.

   

But that wasn't even the main savoury course! It was building towards a plate of southern fried lion's mane mushrooms (oddly, three to share among four) with white gravy and chow chow. Another impressive main in its own right, we were content to share a taste at this late stage in the meal.

   

We were offered the choice of two desserts of the three on the menu to finish out. We thought we wanted more than half a dessert each but we were mistaken - the sweets were generously portioned and there was plenty to go around. Ben took the lead on a banana pudding, a densely packed cup with fresh banana slices suspended in layers of creamy pudding.

   

Michael and I split the skillet brownie, which had absorbed its coffee chocolate fudge beyond recognition and was topped with a little icecream.

It's been a long time between Smith and Daughters visits, and it has retained the elements we value most: rich and abundant vegan food drawing from traditions across the Americas, fit for a special occasion and served by friendly and highly competent staff. We'll have to commit to more visits if we want it to stick around.

____________

You can read about one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten of our previous visits to the past Brunswick St version of Smith & Daughters.

____________

Smith & Daughters

107 Cambridge St, Collingwood

9123 1712

menu

https://www.smithanddaughters.com/

Accessibility: There's a wide, flat entry and medium-spaced furniture inside with a clear walkway through, mostly regular-height tables with backed chairs but also a padded bench, and backed stools at a high bar. We ordered and paid at our table. We didn't visit the toilets.