February 13, 2024
Pinchy's brands itself as a lobster and champagne bar so I was a little surprised when our vegan friend Jess invited us to celebrate his birthday there. He has excellent taste so I put my trust in him and in Pinchy's - it turns out that they have a vegan 'made friendlier' six course tasting menu ($60 per person and significantly cheaper than their seven courses 'by the sea') and it's a lot of fun.
The extensive drinks list includes fancy, unique cocktails and mocktails - Michael got into the swing of things with a spicy marg ($22), while I sipped on a sunset tonic ($14). Another popular choice around our table was the nectar of the night ($22), which includes a colour transformation at the table through the combination of butterfly pea tea and lemon juice.
We didn't have to wait long before the food started arriving! First came these ultra crisp miniature spiced tofu tacos, with a light salsa and lots of avocado mousse.
The Caesar salad tartlet came draped in a fine sliver of celeriac; inside was a smoky, savoury mixture of confit garlic, lettuce, capers and vegan parmesan.
The beetroot tartare was a striking square with a toasty nori crouton base, earthy tender beetroot filling, and a little piped avocado on top.
The leek croquettes, served with herb oil, might have been my favourite - I love that combination of crispy-crumbed shell and molten interior.
Though the charred capsicum crisp was listed first on the menu, it arrived late on. I know these shells best from the dish pani puri, and it was a little jarring to eat one stuffed with roast capsicum rather than potatoes and mint water!
The vegan tasting menu climaxes with a pillow-soft bun stuffed with charred lion's mane mushroom and a small side of potato crisps. I doubt it tastes anything like a lobster roll but it's a joy all its own.
The gentlest nudge from the wait staff had us ordering some truffle fries ($14), which were served with a terrific truffle aioli.
More generally, the staff were an absolute delight - professional, funny and friendly, completely on top of the vegan menu and especially attentive to the one coeliac in our party. The vibe of the venue is a little ostentatious for my tastes and I never imagined the menu would be for me either - but I'm glad to be proven wrong and had a very memorable time at Pinchy's.
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For write-ups of the seafood at Pinchy's, you can read a generally positive account on Whatever Floats Your Bloat and a more effusive review on Olive Sundays.
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Pinchy's
1/200 Bourke St, Melbourne
0420 783 719
Accessibility: We took the stairs up to Pinchy's and, although I didn't notice a lift, there is a wide and shallow ramp inside so there seems a reasonable chance that one is available. Furniture is densely packed, a mixture of booths, low tables with backed chairs and high tables with backed chairs. We ordered and paid at our table. We didn't visit the toilets.
