Edit 16/09/2023: Theodore's is now closed.
October 27, 2021
After several months in lockdown, I could think of few better ways to celebrate loosening restrictions than an outdoor meal at Theodore's. It's been a tough run for a restaurant that opened in late 2019, but their quality service and community spirit has always shone through as brightly as their food. We first visited with a huge crew on a hot night, and I just couldn't get their summer tomato salad out of my mind. Throughout our longest lockdown, we ordered vege boxes, other groceries and a Saturday night meal delivery from them, and when that was over I was able to share a milestone birthday banquet there with friends.
This year, we've had less luck: we booked a birthday dinner for Michael in May, but the first date and two reschedules were all scuppered by a series of lockdowns. We've stopped by for takeaway pretzels and fancy sandwiches. This Wednesday was their first night reopening as a restaurant, and it was forecast to be the warmest, sunniest day of the week, so we walked over early and nabbed one of their outdoor walk-in tables. At last!
The first positive impression that the Theodore's team made with me was with their house-made cordials. I picked a mixed citrus one this time, which was lovely, and wished I had the appetite to double down with a kiwi one. They've also expanded their range of non-alcoholic drinks to Sobah beers and a locally made gin.
We ate as broadly as we could across the vegetarian options on their street menu. This smoked tofu dip ($14) became an instant favourite, served with big vege crisps and radishes.
The goats cheese tart ($16) was also a lot of fun - the dense, creamy wedge of cheese was served with a Jatz crumb, more crackers on the side, and enough herbs and pickled beetroot slices to break up the richness.
The fried potatoes with Turkish chilli aioli ($10) were also as fabulous as they looked! We chose them over the house bread - we later spied it at another table and it looked like a worthy carb rival.
Our final savoury dish was mercifully a bit lighter: lettuce cups layered with a vegan lemon crema, baked carrots, olives and a seed mix ($12).
Dessert ($14) was an ultra-creamy bavarois with gingernut crust and blood orange, that the staff said was their play on key lime pie. (A funny coincidence that I've been playing with lime pie and ginger desserts at home lately too!)
Theodore's regularly change up their menu, and they're offering only set menus for their reserved tables. (They have a top-notch record accommodating dietary requirements, especially with advance notice.) While there's no guarantee you or we will eat any of these specific dishes on a future visit, I always enter with confidence that it will be a special meal.
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You can read about our first visit to Theodore's here.
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4 Saxon St, Brunswick
9380 2446
Accessibility: On this night, we ate out on the (slightly uneven) street, where furniture was generously spaced, at standard height, and the chairs had backs. We signed in at the door, then ordered and paid at our table. For indoor diners: there's a shallow ramp on entry. Most tables are densely packed booths, but there's a bit of room for a pram around the free-standing tables, and the staff are very welcoming of children (we've visited with a newborn among our party before).
So glad you finally got to have your visit there. The smoked tofu dip sounds amazing.
ReplyDeleteThat dip was so impressive! Probably my fave of the meal.
DeleteGood to hear how much you enjoyed your visits - I passed this cafe earlier in the year and thought it looked interesting but that the menu looked a bit limited in veg options. I am particularly interested to hear about their non-alcoholic offerings. It looks like fun to sit in that colourful street!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Johanna! Sitting out there was the perfect way to celebrate relaxed pandemic rules. :)
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