Tuesday, May 26, 2026

Artichoke heart cannelloni

Februrary 28, 2026 
   
 
We were in the mood for a cosy pasta project on a Saturday night, and I pulled this one out of Deb Perelman's first Smitten Kitchen Cookbook. The photo in the book has pasta shells oozing with something creamy and cheesy, edges crisped to a golden brown, and everything flecked with green parsley. My presentation is a little more coarse but it hit the mark well enough.
 
The major hitch was that I couldn't find jumbo pasta shells. I'm not confident that they're even a thing here in Australia. I pivoted to cannelloni: that meant filling them carefully while they were uncooked and brittle, compared to shells that were intended to be cooked, soft and open for filling. I kept an eye on the amount of liquid in the sauce and the baking time, wanting to make sure that the pasta cooked through in the last phase. They did pretty well under the original instructions, though perhaps they didn't look quite as satisfyingly gooey.
 
Pasta shapes aside, we stuck to the key flavours: a filling of blended artichoke hearts brightened with white wine and lemon juice, poured over with a thick ricotta béchamel, and scattered with basil leaves. It was gorgeous, paired with a favourite simple tomato salad that I've won Michael around to.
 
 
 
Artichoke heart cannelloni
(adapted from Deb Perelman's The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook
 
cannelloni
3 tablespoons butter
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 x 400g cans artichoke hearts, drained and rinsed, and sliced in half
1/4 cup white wine
1 cup grated parmesan
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon lemon juice
salt and pepper, to taste
250g box cannelloni tubes 
 
sauce
55g butter
1/4 cup flour
2 cups milk
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup ricotta
2 tablespoons lemon juice
salt and pepper, to taste
 
2 tablespoons parsley or basil leaves, chopped, to garnish
 
 
Melt the butter in a medium-large frypan over medium heat. When it's lightly brown, add the olive oil, and then the onion. Cook the onion, stirring, until softened and browning, about 10 minutes. Add the artichoke hearts and cook for 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook it all, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated. Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool a little.
 
When the artichoke mixture is no longer too hot for it, transfer it to a food processor. Add the parmesan, egg yolks, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pulse the mixture until it is well chopped but still retains plenty of texture.
 
Make the sauce by melting the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour. Gradually whisk in the milk, keeping it all moving to prevent lumps. Add the garlic and bring the sauce to the boil, stirring regularly. Reduce the heat and stir in the ricotta, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
 
Preheat an oven to 180°C. Spread a bit of the sauce over the base of a large, high-walled baking dish (about 20 x 30 cm). Use a teaspoon to carefully spoon the artichoke filling into each cannelloni tube, then set the tubes into the baking dish on top of the sauce. When all the cannelloni and filling is used up, spoon the remaining sauce over them. Cover the dish in foil and bake for about 30 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for a further 15 minutes.
 
Serve the cannelloni sprinkled with parsley or basil.  

Sunday, May 24, 2026

Good Daze Canteen

February 27, 2026 
   

Since Nyala no longer serves tafach mooz, we had room for dessert on Brunswick St and I had a back-up plan. I've been following Good Daze Canteen on instagram for a while and we were both ready to try their cheery icecream menu. It was tough to choose across their flavours of the world (peaches cream cornbread! dulce de leche chocolate alfajor! guava chilli!), and we were impressed that a third of the menu seemed to be vegan. They also keep a cheeky little bowl of Lacteeze tablets by the register.

Michael ordered a double scoop ($9.50) of the very Australian Cherry Ripe and the Viet ice coffee*leche flan. Both were excellent: look at that swoon-worthy swirl on the Cherry Ripe!  

   
 
I went for a single scoop ($7) of the miso peanut butter caramel, credited jointly to Japan and the USA, and added Nutella on top ($1.50). Perhaps not the most adventurous choice in the year 2026, but an excellent combination: nutty, with a complex saltiness, gooey and rich.
 
This capped off our meal perfectly; we agreed that we'd welcome all future excuses to come back and try more. 
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Good Daze Canteen
316 Brunswick St, Fitzroy
 
Accessibility: There is a small lip on the door and a flat corridor through the canteen. There is a regular-height communal table with backed chairs inside, and a bench on the street. We ordered and paid at a low counter. We didn't visit the toilets.

Saturday, May 23, 2026

Nyala II

February 27, 2026
 
   

We're back for another Cheap Eats 2006 two decades on post, with a visit to Nyala African Restaurant in Fitzroy. We first visited Nyala in about 2004, before we even lived in Melbourne and we loved it so much that we revisited very early in our where's the beef era - October 2006. According to their website, Nyala was the first Ethiopian place in Melbourne and has been trading since 1987 - pretty impressive!

Since our 2006 visit Nyala has moved down the street, to a lovely, airy space above Masti on Brunswick Street, but otherwise things are pretty similar: Ethiopian food, friendly service and some delicious African beers. 
    
   

We started out with a dip combo plate: small serves of lentil dip, tahini dip and eggplant/turmeric dip served with mountain bread ($15). This is a great way to try all Nyala's dipping options - I think the red lentil one was my favourite, but you really can't go wrong with any of these, especially alongside a St George's Ethiopian beer.

   

We followed up with the classic Ethiopian veg combo plate with injera - beyaynetu ($28). This comes with serves of each of their four vego mains: futari (Tanzanian cabbage with veggies in coconut cream), keek woet (Ethiopian style rich brown lentils), defen meser (yellow split peas, seasoned and cooked Ethiopian style) and gomen (steamed silverbeet and spinach with garlic and ginger). They happily kept our injera supplies topped up as we messily dug our way through these excellent dishes - there's something about the sour bread and the rich earthy flavours of these stews that just works. 

 
   
 
Prices at Nyala have just about kept up with inflation - mains in 2006 cost $14, up to $28 this year, while entrees have approximately doubled as well ($7 to $15). The menu has changed a little, but the only notable shift is the absence of the banana and brown sugar dessert Cindy enjoyed in 2006.  I'm so glad Nyala has survived, although things were pretty quiet the night we visited. We had such a lovely dinner - the staff were super friendly, the space gorgeous and the food excellent - a great reminder not to wait 20 years to visit again.
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You can read about our 2006 Nyala visit (and admire our 2006 photos) here
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Nyala African Restaurant
Level 1, 356 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
9419 9128
fooddrinks  

Accessibility: Nyala is up a flight of stairs, we didn't notice a lift but there might be one tucked away somewhere. Tables are nicely spaced out and we paid at a high counter. We didn't visit the toilets.

Saturday, May 16, 2026

Beautiful Jim Key II

February 15, 2026
 

We stopped in at Beautiful Kim Key a second time for lunch, before a Barkly Square trip, and perched up at the bright yellow communal table.  
 
 
Michael tried their vegetarian toastie, which was stuffed with finely chopped broccoli and pecorino ($18), served with a cheek of lemon and chilli flakes on the side. A pretty good hash brown ($6) rounded it up to a proper meal for him.

 
I was less concerned about proper meals, see-sawing right until the last moment between the heirloom tomato and focaccia special and the pain perdu. Well, I got the pain perdu ($19), and it was flawless: a single golden piece of French toast served with a blood plum in syrup, and a flourish of creme fraiche.
 
Our meal wasn't heavy but it was full of flavour, just the thing to put a spring in our step for the errands ahead. 
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You can read about our first visit to Beautiful Jim Key here
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Beautiful Jim Key
7 Wilson Ave, Brunswick
0400 124 414 
 
Accessibiltity: BJK has a flat entry and medium-spaced furniture, a mixture of bench seating along the wall, low tables with backed seats, then a high communal table with backless stools. We ordered at our table and paid at a low counter. We didn't use the toilets, but I think I spotted a reasonably spacious unisex cubicle. 

Sunday, May 10, 2026

Chocolate Buddha

January 31, 2026

   

Weirdly, we're gonna commence our Cheap Eats 2006 two decades on reviews with a restaurant that we've never before blogged: Chocolate Buddha. Chocolate Buddha has never truly drawn me in on its own merits but it's very convenient for fitting dinner in around a CBD-based cultural event. It's embedded in Federation Square and turns around decent Japanese food, fast. It always seems bustling, and you can lock down a booking before your ticketed show. At the same time, their kitchen is open to a reasonable time and if you walk in as a small group there's a good chance they'll have room for you. Most recently, Michael and I tried walking up at 8:30pm after an ACMI Tony Leung Chiu-wai movie and squeezed into the bench by the window.

   

Vegetarian and vegan dishes are marked and scattered across the menu, and there's a dedicated column for gluten-free friendly items (with a contamination caveat). We grazed on some of the more shareable options: crispy-fried green gyoza with wasabi mayo ($15), a simple tofu katsu ($11; in lieu of their sold-out nasu dengaku), seasonal green veges in a garlic, ginger and sesame dressing ($12), and steamed rice ($5).

   

Agedashi tofu ($16) is a staple; this one came with lots of broth and a helpful ladle for sharing.

Prices have increased since 2006, of course: side dishes were once $4-13 and now sit around $5-20; mains were $14-20 and are now $23-30. The Cheap Eats reviewer warned that staff could be "harried and humourless" but we experienced the complete opposite in 2026: the four staff we interacted with kept pace with confidence and a smile. Chocolate Buddha might never make the where's the best? page, but it's undeniably handy to fall back on when you feel like a tourist in your own city.

   
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Back in 2006, Morsels & Musings loved the food, but like Cheap Eats they bemoaned the service at Chocolate Buddha. Since then it has received positive reviews on This and ThatThe Food JoyWeekend Notes, and Mamma Knows Melbourne.
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Chocolate Buddha
Federation Square, Swanston and Flinders Sts, Melbourne CBD
9654 5688

Accessibility: There are both steps and a flatter entry point to Chocolate Buddha, but I'm not sure there's a way of avoiding the undulating, cobbled Federation Square. Furniture is densely packed with reasonably clear but busy walkways - mostly low tables with backless stools, some backed metal chairs outside and some backed chairs and booth seating toward the back inside. We ordered at our table and paid at a low counter. We didn't visit the toilets.