September 29, 2025
We've not paid much attention to Walrus and its diner style in the couple of years it's been on Sydney Rd. It's clearly popular, though, with people often spilling onto the street on weekends. A couple of recommendations from friends filtered in and I decided to visit for a quiet solo lunch on a weekday. A staff member offered me a seat at the counter top and the booths rapidly filled up behind me.
The menu is very firmly grounded in diner traditions - sunny side up eggs with Texas toast, blueberry pancakes, biscuits and gravy, steak and eggs, hash browns, Denver omelettes - but there are a few nods to the present-day brunch scene, like avocado as an add-on, and apple porridge flavoured with miso and lemon balm. There are no indicators of what fits dietary requirements, and it took a chat with the staff to officially rule out the biscuit and gravy as not vegetarian.
Instead I chose a bodega roll with hash, egg and cheese ($14) and a huge, ice-filled orange juice ($6). The roll was wrapped, steamy and comforting, with a tangy tomato sauce that cut through the richness of the triple-yellow filling.
The specials board right next to me announced the pies of the day, and I had to try the key lime ($11). It was exceptional, with a buttery crumb and smooth filling that was equal parts creamy, sweet and sour. The frill of aerosol cream added to the retro look, but I could take or leave it, really.
The staff were welcoming and sufficiently available. I had a great little time at Walrus, but it's not as inclusive as what I'm usually looking for - the fixed booths and high, backless stools won't suit all bodies, and the menu doesn't have vegans or coeliacs in mind. They've successfully found their crowd, regardless.
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Walrus has also received a positive review on Around Melbourne.
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Walrus
312 Sydney Rd, Brunswick
7071 2596
Accessibility: There's a small lip on the door and a clear, flat corridor through the centre of the café. Seating is mostly fixed booths at regular height; there's also a high counter with fixed backless stools for individual customers. I ordered and paid at the high counter. I didn't visit the toilets.
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