August 1, 2021
I was absolutely thrilled to learn two months ago that Nornie Bero of Mabu Mabu was opening a second restaurant in Fed Square, called Big Esso. Fed Square is easy walking distance from numerous theatres, galleries and other arts venues, but I've never developed any fondness for its eateries. Melbourne's fifth lockdown messed around with Big Esso's opening date, but I kept a close eye on their social media and booked us in for a Sunday lunch on this, their opening weekend.
The menu celebrates native ingredients, often draws from the flavours of Bero's Mer Island home, and is like none other I've seen in Melbourne. There's more seafood than terrestrial meat and, as best I could see, every vegetarian item is vegan. Gluten-free items aren't as clearly marked, but my best guess would be that almost everything - bar the damper, the crumbed poussin, and the freekeh salad - is likely to be suitable.
We made up a lunch of two small share plates and two sides. The pickled watermelon ($17) arrived first and really made itself known! The pickley flavours, including a desert lime chilli dressing, were strong and acidic, and the sea succulents and crunchy rivermint had a contrasting saltiness that was no less bold. I liked this, but would have enjoyed it more teamed with some extra, milder greens, perhaps. As it was we tempered it with our other dishes.
The Brussels sprouts ($18) were more self-contained: roasted golden on one side, paired with a rich macadamia cream and garnished with just a few pickled onions.
The lemon aspen and pepperberry fries ($9) were our trusty foil to the pickled watermelon, but their more subtle seasonings got a bit lost along the way.
We had a bit of a wait, then, until our fried Jerusalem artichokes ($16) arrived, and they were ultimately our favourite dish. The artichokes were crispy skinned and soft-centred, served atop a sweet and starchy macadamia and yam pâte, scattered with Jerusalem artichoke crisps and edible flowers. This dish was pretty, special, and perfectly comforting for mid-winter.
The drinks menu is as thoughtfully composed as the food - Michael drank a Sobah lemon aspen Pilsner ($8), and I tried the wattle cola ($10). The light-filled, brightly coloured and patterned fit-out feels really fun, and I picked up our second bottle of tomato sauce on our way out. The staff are still figuring out their systems, with food arriving irregularly and getting muddled across shared tables, but it's early days and I'm sure they'll hit their stride soon. If MIFF or MWF manage to host in-person events as we hope, I'll be back soon to see for myself.
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Big Esso
Fed Square, corner of Swanston & Flinders Sts
Accessibility: Big Esso has a wide, flat entry, although Fed Square itself has a somewhat cobbled surface. Furniture is a mixture of outdoor benches, low indoor tables with benches and back seats, and high tables with backless stools. We ordered at our table and paid at a high bar. We didn't visit the toilets.
Wow, the vegan options here look incredible! Very fancy and some wonderful native ingredients.
ReplyDeleteThough communal tables? Is this the time in the world to be opening a restaurant with communal tables? I don't want to be sharing a tablet with a random stranger and their potential cooties!!!!
Hi Susan! I suppose it's the risk we take if we eat out at the moment. This was a 6 seater table with 2 people, a 1 chair gap either side, and 2 more people. The spacing would probably have been the same if we'd been at neighbouring 2-seater tables along the side wall.
DeleteIt's all moot this week, given we're in lockdown again, and it may look different in future. Hopefully there'll come a time when you can visit and feel safe about the circumstances!
I love watermelon.
ReplyDelete