Monday, June 29, 2015

Smith & Deli II

Edit 02/01/2022: S+D has had a revamp and is now located at 107 Cambridge St, Collingwood.

June 23, 25 & 26, 2015

After the excitement of Smith & Deli's launch, Cindy and I decamped to the Sunshine Coast for a week, missing the madness of the Deli's first week of proper trading. On our return, I got busy making up for lost time.

My first visit on Tuesday morning was intended as a quick stop to grab a sandwich for lunch. On discovering that the sandwiches aren't an option first thing in the morning I decided I'd have to come back later in the day. Still, no point walking out empty-handed. I grabbed a soy flat white and an Egg McMartinez ($7) to tide me over.


The coffee (by Wide Open Road) was excellent, but the Egg McMartinez was the real star - a deliciously eggy muffin sandwich with a slice of melty cheese and some crispyish bacon. It's a snack rather than a meal, but an incredibly delicious one.

I was back at lunchtime, in the rather long sandwich queue. I'd been hanging for a Godfather (hot chilli salami, pepperonci, mozzarella, roasted peppers and fresh basil, $13).


Is this the best vegan sandwich in Melbourne? The Reuben at True North is a contender, and there are another dozen or so to sample at Smith & Deli, but it's hard to see anything topping this - it doesn't hold back on the spice levels, has a pretty convincingly melty cheese undertone and has bursts of basil to accompany the thick salami chunks. Incredible.

I couldn't walk out without some lunch-dessert, adding a maple-bacon doughnut for afters (I've forgotten the price - maybe $5).


The crispy, salty coconut flakes took a good doughnut and made it great. Vegans now have a challenger in the fancy doughnut trend sweeping Melbourne.

Amazingly, I somehow found myself without a packed lunch just a couple of days later and in need of another visit to the deli. This time I started with the Temple of Doom (turkey, jalapenos, roasted corn, pickled cabbage, cheese and chipotle aioli, $13).


This was a bit of a messier eat than the Godfather, but was similarly great - the combinations on the S & D sangas have clearly had plenty of thought put into them - in this case the pickled cabbage, jalapenos and aioli worked some pretty great flavour magic around the turkey and cheese slices.

I almost ordered another doughnut for dessert, but branched out to sample a challah sticky bun ($7), a rich bun, gooey with some sort of caramel glaze.


After such a successful run of daytime dining, we finished the week sampling some of the pre-prepared meals for sale in the fridges at Smith & Deli, splitting a pepperoni pizza ($17) and a small serve of mapo tofu ($10).


The pepperoni pizza was a simple affair - an excellent thin base, topped with tomato sauce, a few big chunks of salami (possibly the same product that featured on the Godfather sandwich), some mozzarella rectangles and fresh basil leaves. It's a classy step up from the vegan pizzas we recently had delivered from Eat Pizza. In general, pizzas suffer from a vegan premium price-wise, and $17 is a bit of a stretch for this, but mock meats and cheeses don't come cheap.


The mapo tofu was gratifyingly similar to the version that I love making, right down to the over-enthusiasm with the chilli, which left Cindy gasping. I can well imagine grabbing a serve of this next time's Cindy's out of town and I'm too lazy to cook - it's really excellent.

The Melbourne veg*n community is losing their collective mind about Smith & Deli and with good reason. It's serving up a stunning array of vegan food, from pastries, sweets and sandwiches, to spices, staples and mock meat, plus a range of pre-made meals for home. Having an office within 500m is going to be an expensive, delicious privilege.

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quinces and kale, Little Vegan Bear and Veganopolous all munched their way through Smith & Deli's menu during the first week it was open, while style melbourne, Eat And Be Merry, For Tomorrow We Die(t), table to paper, Veggie Mama and MEL: HOT OR NOT were all at the same freebie launch that we were.
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Smith & Deli
111 Moor St, Fitzroy
9042 4117
sandwich menu 1, 2
facebook page

Accessibility: There's a lip on the door and the interior is flat. All foods are easily visible, but some of the groceries are easier to reach than others. Ordering and payment is at a low counter.

9 comments:

  1. Some of those sandwiches on the menu are really messing with me. See, I don't really like corn kernels or cabbage but that sandwich looks fab. Same with the parmageddon, I don't like tempeh but Smith & Deli. You know? I decided to have the meatball sandwich the next time I visit but now I'm thinking godfather. Or the axis of evil one. Plus a donut.

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    1. Hey Veganopoulous - I totally get ya. Tempeh seems like a weird parma base but if anyone call pull it off I reckon it's these guys.

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    2. You realise they make them on the spot and can totally customise the choice of ingredients?

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  2. I hope those doughnuts are there some time when I am in - loved the home alone sandwich but I really don't know which one I want to try next - so much choice! Possibly that eggy muffin will be high on my to eat list. Lucky you to have them near to you at work!

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    1. Hi Johanna - I think the doughnuts are quick to disappear each day! I've only managed to snag one sticky bun myself, and the breakfast muffin's definitely on my wishlist.

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  3. I thought $17 sounded a little steep for a pizza too. I still haven't physically been in there yet - I didn't realise they had things like mapo tofu - how cool! I really want that brekkie muffin and the spicy godfather sammich sounds great too.

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    1. Hi littleveganbear - yeah, I bet you make fantastic vegan pizzas yourself for a fraction of the price. We're definitely paying for the convenience here.

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  4. I had the wiggum, if I remembered the name right. The star should be the salt and pepper tofu but it was lost and also low in quantity, overpowered by the sweetness of the maple slaw.

    I think this is a place where hits and misses will occur and only if you are willing to go back again and again, that you will eventually find the decent ones.

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    1. Hi tytty - thanks for your report! It's a shame your wiggum didn't measure up.

      You might be able to shortcut past those misses with help from quinceandkale's review of all the S&D sandwiches she ate during veganmofo in 2015.

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