January 5, 2024
It's been a while between visits to Small Axe Kitchen, though we always think of it fondly. We made time for breakfast there during our summer break, and easily secured a spot at one of their outdoor communal tables. The menu has changed a lot though it retains the same Sicilian inspiration that sets it apart from other brunch-centred cafes. There are plenty of egg-based dishes, but also lots of meats and vegetables that we don't typically see before noon. Small Axe is still most well-known for its breakfast pasta, which now comes with a vegetarian option. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options are well-marked throughout.
I vacillated between the chilled rice pudding and the tiramisu pannacotta, ultimately settling on the former ($25, pictured above). Inevitably the rice had that firm, starchy texture it gets when chilled yet there were so many other textures to enjoy with it: a spoonably-soft baked apple, finely diced fresh apple, pureed apple and dehydrated apple frills, creamy custard and crunchy almond crumble. No two mouthfuls were quite the same, and all of them were lovely.
Michael continued on his chilli-scramble habit: this Sicilian egg-based one ($24.50) was served on toast with pecorino and chives. He rated this as one of the better ones going around, with excellent toast and a pleasing slow burn.
It's great to see Small Axe Kitchen succeeding, both sticking to its unique Sicilian style and switching up its specific offerings over time. We should circle back more often.
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You can also read about one, two, three of our previous visits to Small Axe Kitchen. Since then it's received positive coverage from ElectroBoi Eats.
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Small Axe Kitchen
281 Brunswick St, Brunswick
9939 6061
Accessibility: There's a small step on entry. Tables are densely packed with a clear corridor through the middle. Tables outside have small backless stools, high benches in the front room have tall backless stools, and tables in the back room have ordinary backed chairs. We ordered at our table and paid at a low counter. We didn't visit the toilets.
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