Darwin 2023

July 2-15, 2023

   

I was lucky to travel to Darwin for work this month. Michael and I had booked a Darwin-based holiday back in August 2021 that was cancelled due to lockdowns, so we decided to have a do-over when my conference finished, with the bonus of a few co-worker friends also sticking around for fun.

This was a trip centred more around the outdoors than around food (check out Michael's twitter and instagram for wildlife pics!), and we considered any great meals to just be a bonus. Here's a quick run-down of some of the more memorable dishes.

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I've learned over the years that I don't really enjoy conference dinners, and it can be fun to plan something different just for myself. I chose a table for one at the Moorish Cafe while many of my colleagues were socialising together. A chalkboard out the front proudly announced that they're celebrating 20 years in business and I could see why this place is a stayer - it's informal but a bit special, with a friendly buzz, and a long menu of dishes designed for sharing.

I shared with my future self, ordering enough to take home a left-over dinner for the following night. The roast pumpkin, blue cheese and dried figs ($11.50) wasn't quite as good as it sounded, but every other dish exceeded my expectations: cacio e peppe broccolini ($11.50) was perfectly seasoned and accompanied by crisped cannellini beans, the mac and cheese ($11) was pure comfort finished with a glug of truffle oil, and the portobello mushrooms ($24.50) were dotted with almonds and currants, and sat atop the smoothest, most savoury cauliflower puree.

   

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On my first morning after the conference concluded I explored Darwin on foot, and I fueled up first at KOPI stop. They proudly offer the stylings of a Singapore Kopitiam: laksa, congee, and of course, kopi. Unfortunately I didn't see my favourite teh tarik as an option, but I happily settled for a milosaurus ($8.50, pictured before I spilled Milo all over the table). I preferred my kaya toast ($7.50) without the soft-boiled eggs. This sweet start got me through a browse in the neighbouring Art Warehouse, then over to and around the Botanic Gardens (which has a very pleasant cafe of its own, Eva's).

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Once Michael arrived in Darwin, the brunching began in earnest. Our friend Nick steered us to Ruby G's, which has an extensive menu of toast and toasties, eggs and avo, as well as a cabinet bursting with all manner of baked goods (we made sure to take some of those home for later). Their most unique offering might be the Aussie Croque ($16.50), a white sourdough toastie of three cheeses, bechamel and Vegemite, topped with fried eggs and served with a side of Dijon mustard. It's at least five shades of yellow and it's very rich, but it also really works.

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The MVP of the trip was Ray's Cafe & Patisserie. They're centrally located, airy and have abundant seating - our group called on them for early morning coffee and pastry pick-ups, late lunches, between-errand pit-stops, and laptop work sessions. After a big morning of bird-watching (and mosquito-battling), I tucked into Ray's Mexi Brekie Bun ($19), a soft milk bun stacked with smashed avo, fresh tomato salsa, coriander, lettuce, two fried eggs and chipotle mayo. Michael relieved me of one of the eggs, adding it to his Turkish eggs ($22), which featured wilted greens, labne and za'atar.

   

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Tash got us over to Parap for one last shared brunch before she set off home. Laneway Coffee was very cool, and everyone struggled to choose among a list of appetising dishes: the nourish bowl came with arancini, while the Indo brekkie had house-made chilli sambal; there were more Turkish eggs, and garlic mushrooms on toast, and even the classic avo smash was spruced up with heirloom tomatoes, feta, fresh herbs and Middle Eastern spices. Ultimately, the lure of the sweet breakfast called me back and I was very satisfied by the buckwheat hotcake ($23.50), which was crowned with lemon pannacotta, orange slices, raspberries and edible flowers. More subtle were the dried native fruits and seeds. I had no need for the syrup on the side.

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The Rabbit Hole, located in Darwin's central mall, was perhaps a bit less hip but I want to congratulate them on doing a classic well. Their French toast ($23) achieved my ideal balance - the thick toast was soft, light and not too eggy, a spoonful of mascarpone added density and richness, there was tangy passionfruit curd, and a little lift from the garnishing fresh berries.

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There are other great experiences in Darwin that include food - laksa and fruit juices at the markets (we went to Parap and Nightcliff in the day and Mindil Beach for the sunset), pub food with a sunset view (the Trailer Boat Club has a vegan and vegetarian section on their menu), and the lucky dip of food trucks along the Nightcliff foreshore. In these cases the setting, and hopefully the company you share it with, are just as enjoyable.