February 25, 2025
A friend kindly gifted us a voucher to eat at Vex, and we booked a summery Tuesday night table after work. We trusted their recommendation of restaurant, and we transferred that trust onto Vex and requested the chef's vegetarian choice ('Vex menu', $90 pp). Looking across the a la carte options we were optimistic that we'd be treated to some lovely, seasonal vegetables and something fun for dessert. There were no explicit dietary markings, but a high likelihood that the staff would well know what's what and adapt as needed.
We started strong with some unique beverages - a rhubarb and vermouth spritz ($19) for Michael and a TINA can of oolong, pear and calamansi ($15) for me. The TINA was subtle and complex, a welcome adult option for a non-drinker to enjoy with a special meal.
Two starters swiftly followed: a creamy, cheesy panisse each, and a rye crisp with fennel puree, pickled green beans and a sprinkle of mountain pepper.
Poached daikon was surprisingly soft and mild, topped with slivers of green rhubarb and fennel.
The confit tomato with horseradish, nigella seeds and mint was my ideal late summer side dish, and also included some sneaky nectarine wedges.
I would've liked to soak up the tomato juices with bread, but the stockbrot was more self-contained. A little awkward to handle but worth the effort, we unwound the warm, seeded bread from its skewer, divvied it up, and slathered it with roasted yeast butter.
The centrepiece of the meal was a plate of melt-in-the-mouth glazed eggplant with lentils, bullhorn peppers and black walnuts. Eggplant and lentils can often come off a little austere but they were sillky, luxurious and savoury here.
Sharing the spotlight were tender confit potatoes with oregano and linseed, and grilled carrots with blood plums, sunflower seeds and basil. I loved the seamless inclusion of stonefruits in savoury dishes.
The best part might have been discovering that Vex values dessert as much as I do - we tasted two! First, we received a full portion of spagat krapfen each - a crisp fried pastry with rhubarb, thick cream and fig leaf. This alone would have been a very satisfying end to the meal.
Second, we split a neat little cacao cream with a crumbly chocolate heart and sour cherry crown - one of my favourite dessert flavour combinations.
Our evening at Vex was a special one at an entirely unspecial time. Their vegetarian options were abundant with fresh produce and a bit light on the usual sources of protein, but we were sated nonetheless. Hopefully we can come up with a special excuse to visit again!
____________
You can also read praise for Vex on Whatever Floats Your Bloat.
____________
Vex
66-68 High St, Northcote
9191 7720
Accessibility: There's a step up at the door and a small lip on the transition to the courtyard. Furniture is medium-spaced, regular height with backed chairs and a few benches out back. There's a clear walkway through the space. We ordered at our table and paid at high counter. We didn't visit the toilets.
