HaTiNA / Vegan Heaven

October 10, 2024

   

We were sad to receive news that Vegie Mum closed its Fitzroy restaurant back in May. Happily, the premises have become a sibling to another beloved veg*n restaurant! At the same address, HaTiNa was announced as a second restaurant from the Huong Viet Vegetarian crew. We visited in October, and since then they have undergone rapid renovations and reopened as Vegan Heaven, and remain associated with Huong Viet. The menu remains largely unchanged, running to dozens of vegan dishes. Gluten-free foods are marked and reside primarily in the tofu, mushroom and stir-fry sections of the menu. There are a few chilli warnings scattered about too. Thankfully we had a crew of six hungry veg*ns ready to try as much as we could during the restaurant's brief phase as HaTiNa.

We began by carefully sharing out Lion's Mane Mushroom skewers ($15, pictured above) - these were really meaty and thickly coated in a savoury sauce that had us all appetised for more. 

   

Likewise, the Crispy Fish Salt and Pepper ($16) was very well seasoned and had us eager for the more substantive dishes ahead; it was nestled amongst some colourful, barely-dressed salad.

   

The Authentic Viet Broken Rice ($25) offered welcome variety and heartiness. Similar to the one I've enjoyed at Easy Vegan, it's centred on a mound of rice and a complex dressing, then surrounded by grilled mock meats and shredded vegetables, a mock fried egg, pickles and salad veges.

   

If you thought broken rice might be awkward to share among six, it's easier than laksa! The Zesty Laksa Bowl ($25) was a reasonably spicy rendition containing varied mock meats.

   

The Thai glass noodle salad ($25) was a balancing, fresh contribution to the meal but ultimately didn't rate as anyone's favouite.

   

For me, it was the mini savoury pancakes ($26) that ruled the night. I probably haven't eaten them in a decade, and I was thrilled to have the chance again. These little rice flour pucks are sweet with coconut, fried with crisp savoury toppings (often prawns if not vegetarian) then teamed with a dressing a fresh green herbs.

   

For several others, the Tom Yum Flounder Sweet & Sour Fish ($35) was the pick, and deservedly so. The fish pieces were kept separate from the tangy sauce long enough to retain a crisp, delicate skin and there was just the right medley of fresh vegetables to offset the mock meat richness.

   

Drinks are worth a mention too - there are plenty of non-alcoholic options to choose from, including juices and smoothies. The coconut juice ($10) is served in a coconut and there's vegan condensed milk available for Vietnamese iced coffees ($12)!

This was a really fun, casual meal with lots of dishes we'd gladly eat again. The challenge ahead will be trading off between revisiting their known delights and the potential new favourites that still lie untasted within such an expansive menu. I think we're up to the task.

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HaTiNa / Vegan Heaven

72 Johnston St, Fitzroy

0432 468 538

menu pages one and two 

facebook page

Accessibility: There's a step up on entry. The interior is flat with moderately crowded regular-height tables and backed chairs. We ordered at our table and paid at a high counter. We didn't visit the toilets.

Sautéed rhubarb & fior di latte dressed in peppercorn oil

October 5, 2024

   

Here's the final component of our Ottolenghi grilling trilogy. This one's my favourite of the bunch and it actually hit the cast iron pan as intended. Sections of rhubarb are set on high heat just long enough to soften and char, then they're dressed with ginger honey, layered with big chunks of fior di latte, scattered with basil leaves and finished with peppercorn oil. It's tangy and creamy up against each other, shot through with sweetness and spice. I think I'd be as happy eating this for dessert as I was working it into my main meal!

Sautéed rhubarb & fior di latte dressed in peppercorn oil

(slightly adapted from a recipe by Yotam Ottolenghi in The Guardian)

400g rhubarb, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal into 4-5cm lengths

350g fior di latte, burrata or other fresh, milky cheese, drained and roughly torn into large pieces

10g basil leaves

peppercorn oil

1 teaspoon peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes

flaked sea salt

2 tablespoons oil

ginger honey

90ml runny honey

15g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned

Using a mortar and pestle, lightly crush together the peppercorns, coriander seeds, chilli flakes, and a pinch of salt. Heat the oil in a small saucepan and then add the crushed spices. Cook them for just 30 seconds, then pour the spices and oil together into a small heat-proof bowl or jar. Clean the saucepan.

Set the small saucepan back over medium heat, adding the honey, ginger, a splash of water and a pinch of salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and set aside.

Set a cast iron pan over high heat. When it's hot, add the rhubarb in batches, cooking until just charred and softened and then setting aside in a bowl as you go. When they're all done, stir through about half of the honey mixture.

To serve, layer up the torn fior di latte and rhubarb pieces. Drizzle over the honey, scatter the basil leaves on top, and finally drizzle with the peppercorn oil.